alive dead of fashion
Deadstock fabric refers to surplus production from textile mills or fabric that has been rejected by garment manufacturers and remains unsold. Typically, this fabric ends up being incinerated or sent to landfills. While exact statistics on the sources of deadstock are lacking, it is commonly believed that the primary causes are overproduction by mills (often driven by Minimum Order Quantity, or MOQ, systems) and inefficient procurement management by fashion brands. Other factors include defects in the fabric (such as discoloration, weaving issues, or chemical composition problems) and unsuccessful sampling processes.
5 Pros of Deadstock Fabric:
Reduction of Waste: Utilizing deadstock fabric helps to extend the life of materials that would otherwise contribute to landfill waste or incineration.
Better Resource Utilization: It allows for the effective use of existing resources, avoiding the need for new raw materials and reducing environmental impact.
Low Minimum Order Quantities (MOQs): Deadstock fabrics are often available in smaller quantities (sometimes as little as 3 meters), making them ideal for small businesses or limited-run designs.
Discounted Prices: High-quality fabrics from top producers can be purchased at reduced prices, offering cost-effective options for designers and brands.
Immediate Availability: Since the fabric is already produced, there are no lead times for manufacturing, allowing for quicker turnaround times in production.
5 Cons of Deadstock Fabric:
Doesn’t Address Overproduction: While deadstock helps manage existing surplus, it doesn’t resolve the underlying issue of overproduction. Moreover, the deadstock market can sometimes incentivize mills to overproduce in anticipation of new buyers.
Solution: Work with traders who can verify whether the deadstock is truly surplus or if it was overproduced intentionally. Build relationships with traders who can provide detailed information about the fabric’s origin.
Traceability Issues: It can be challenging to trace the deadstock fabric back to its original feedstock or production practices, making it difficult to assess the environmental and social impacts of the fabric.
Solution: Collaborate with traders who source directly from mills and can provide details on the fabric’s production history. Mills often advertise their certifications and production methods, which can offer insights into their practices.
Limited Quantities: Deadstock fabrics are usually available in limited quantities, which can be problematic for scaling production or for larger collections.
Solution: Use deadstock for unique, custom, or capsule collections where small quantities are suitable, and recognize that these fabrics are best suited for limited-run designs.
Potential Hidden Defects: Some defects in deadstock fabrics may not be immediately apparent and could involve chemical composition or finishing issues. There is a risk that the fabric may not meet safety or environmental standards.
Solution: Verify with the deadstock trader that the fabric has passed necessary safety and toxicity tests. Ensure that any fabric used for garments that come into direct contact with skin is eco-certified, such as those with OEKO-TEX certification.
Not a Complete Sustainability Solution: Using deadstock alone does not make a garment sustainable. The overall sustainability of the product depends on the fabric's environmental and social impact and the practices of the mill.
Solution: Conduct thorough research on the mill and the fabric itself to understand its sustainability credentials. Ensure that the use of deadstock is part of a broader strategy that includes sustainable practices and material choices.
Conclusion:
Deadstock fabric presents both opportunities and challenges in the context of sustainable fashion. While it helps reduce waste and offers economic benefits, it is not a panacea for the issues of overproduction or environmental impact. A careful approach to sourcing, transparency, and understanding the fabric’s history and quality is crucial in making the most of deadstock while contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry.