recycling
Recycling in Fashion: Is It Always a Viable Solution?
Recycling is often touted as a sustainable solution for managing textile waste. However, the effectiveness and feasibility of recycling in the fashion industry are complex and depend on various factors. This guide explores why so few garments are recycled, how recycling is carried out in fashion, and what defines a garment’s recyclability.
My Take on Recycling in Fashion:
Cost vs. Viability: Recycling in the fashion industry is often suboptimal because it remains more expensive than producing garments from virgin fibers. This economic disparity explains why recycling rates in fashion are low. Therefore, it’s crucial not to rely solely on recycling as a solution when purchasing garments.
Blended Textiles Issue: Most garments are made from blended textiles, which complicates recycling. To enhance recyclability, opt for mono-material textiles. These fabrics are easier to recycle compared to blends, increasing their potential for reuse.
Choose Pure Recycled Fibers: Garments made from 100% recycled natural fibers, such as recycled wool or recycled cotton, are preferable. This ensures that both the recycling infrastructure and technology are available and functional, and that the fibers are biodegradable, reducing environmental impact.
rPET Concerns: Recycled PET (rPET) is often criticized for greenwashing. It diverts valuable recyclable resources from the food industry, where they could be reused multiple times, to the fashion industry, which often lacks effective recycling infrastructure.
Key Terms to Understand Recycling in Fashion:
Upcycling vs. Downcycling:
Upcycling: Involves recycling garments or fabrics into products of the same or higher quality. For example, recycling post-consumer woolen garments into new woolen fabric. Upcycling maintains or increases the material’s value and lifespan.
Downcycling: The recycled material is of lower quality and functionality than the original. For instance, rPET used to create blended fabrics that are not commercially recyclable. Downcycling reduces the material's value and life cycle.
Pre- vs. Post-Consumer Waste:
Pre-Consumer Waste: Generated before the product reaches the consumer. Includes fabric deadstock, cut-outs, and unsold garments. This type of waste is often more manageable and recyclable due to established infrastructure.
Post-Consumer Waste: Comes from end consumers and includes used garments. Recycling post-consumer waste is more challenging and expensive due to the need for specialized sorting and deconstruction.
Fabric Type:
Natural Fibers: Examples include cotton, wool, silk. Generally more recyclable via mechanical processes.
Semi-Synthetic Fibers: Examples include viscose, lyocell. Derived from natural sources but chemically processed.
Synthetic Fibers: Examples include polyester, nylon. Generally less recyclable and often require chemical processes.
Recycling Processes:
Mechanical Recycling: Involves cleaning, shredding, and re-spinning the material into new yarn. It’s resource-efficient and cost-effective but releases microfibers. Mostly used for natural fabrics.
Chemical Recycling: Uses chemical reactions to break down fabrics into basic components for reassembly. This includes hydrolysis, pyrolysis, and catalysis. It can handle blended fabrics and produces higher-quality outputs but is currently more expensive and less commercially viable.
Mono-Material vs. Blended Material:
Mono-Material: Composed of a single type of fiber. Easier to recycle, such as 100% cotton or 100% polyester.
Blended Material: Composed of multiple fibers. Generally harder to recycle. Blends often require chemical recycling technologies, which are more costly and complex.
Cost of Recycling: The cost of recycling can be high, particularly for complex fabrics or post-consumer waste. Manufacturers are more likely to invest in recycling infrastructure if it is financially viable compared to producing virgin materials.
Conclusion:
Recycling in the fashion industry faces significant challenges. It is not always a viable solution due to high costs, limited technology, and the complexity of textile blends. When considering recycling, focus on garments made from mono-materials or 100% recycled natural fibers, and understand the recycling processes and fabric types involved. Be cautious of greenwashing claims, and prioritize purchasing garments with genuinely sustainable practices.