Working with new gen materials #2
Finding a Manufacturer
When it comes to finding a manufacturer for new-generation materials, several challenges are embedded in the process:
Material Sourcing: Convincing a manufacturer to work with your chosen material, which may not be in their typical supply chain, means they may lose out on their usual sourcing margins.
Small MOQs and Quality Variability: Many manufacturers are hesitant to work with small Minimum Order Quantities (MOQs) and materials that may have inconsistent quality.
Market Cannibalization: Some materials might compete with conventional options, threatening the livelihood of manufacturers who rely on traditional materials.
Willingness to Experiment: Finding a manufacturer who is open-minded enough to invest time and resources into a lengthy, experimental process without any guarantee of success can be difficult.
A practical approach is to start with artisans, ateliers, and sampling studios. These smaller, more flexible operations are often more willing to experiment and test both your material and designs. Additionally, learning how to create prototypes yourself can be invaluable—don’t be afraid to experiment and make mistakes with the material.
2. Educating the Industry
Most people in the industry are unfamiliar with new-generation materials and their benefits, and they typically don’t question conventional manufacturing processes. This means you’ll need to clearly explain your brand’s concept and meticulously articulate all your requirements.
For instance, if your brand focuses on biodegradability, you must ensure your manufacturer understands that they can’t use polyester interfacing or non-water-based glue. Guiding them through each step of the process is crucial.
Here’s a structured approach:
Define your initial rules (e.g., biodegradability, localization, recyclability).
Understand the manufacturing process for your garment.
Map the process to your rules, identifying where adjustments are needed.
Amend the rules if necessary, based on what’s feasible.
Clearly communicate the final rules to your manufacturer.
Find a manufacturer who understands and aligns with your vision.
3. Taming the Material
A common misconception is that new-generation materials should mimic the look and behavior of conventional ones. Unless the chemical composition is identical (e.g., viscose vs. agri-waste cellulose-based Lyocell fabrics), these materials will behave differently.
Instead of imposing preconceived notions, start with an open mind. Approach your material as an experiment, exploring its unique qualities. Design around these characteristics rather than trying to force the material into a conventional mold. Combining conventional and unconventional materials that fit your brand’s principles can also lead to innovative outcomes.
4. Sourcing Ancillary Materials
Every component of your garment should align with your brand’s rules, from the outer fabric to the smallest details. High-quality, non-mainstream ancillary materials often come at a higher cost, so it’s essential to consider this when setting your price points.
Sometimes, these ancillary materials are new-generation materials themselves, such as innovative padding or hardware. Highlighting these details can make your product even more unique and appealing to customers.
The best places to source innovative ancillary materials are fairs, design weeks, and exhibitions, where you can discover the latest developments in the field.
5. Managing Quality Variability
In conventional fashion, quality standardization is often achieved through the use of synthetics. However, new-generation materials, particularly those that are bio-based, typically don’t offer the same homogeneity.
These materials can vary in look and quality due to their natural origins (e.g., fungi, bacteria, agri-waste, natural dyes) and the fact that they are often still in the process of being refined, even when commercially available.
This variability can impact both manufacturing and customer expectations. To manage these challenges:
Communicate clearly with your customers about the nature of the materials, emphasizing their natural origins and unique qualities.
Avoid mass production in the early stages. Instead, start with small collections and adjust your designs as the materials evolve.
By managing expectations and remaining flexible, you can successfully navigate the complexities of working with new-generation materials.