Working with new gen materials #1
1. Navigating Access to New Generation Material Producers
In the realm of next-generation materials, you’re likely to encounter two distinct types of producers: small research-focused studios and large enterprises backed by significant investors with the capacity for large-scale production.
For both, breaking through as an unknown designer or brand can be a challenging endeavor. Small studios often prioritize innovation over volume, and large companies typically require substantial orders or a well-established name before they consider collaboration.
Your best bet with small studios is to connect through professional exhibitions. Here, you’ll need to present at least a few prototypes to demonstrate your credibility and potential. On the other hand, engaging with large companies might prove difficult unless you’re prepared to meet their Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) or already have a strong industry reputation. My experience has shown that collaborating with small to mid-sized research labs tends to be more rewarding.
2. MOQ and Material Availability
Material availability and MOQs present another set of challenges. In many cases, you’ll face either extremely limited availability—think just a few sheets in stock—or bulk quantities with high MOQs, such as 500 linear meters of fabric or 30-50 sheets of material.
Both scenarios require strategic navigation. When dealing with rare materials, you may need to create unique, narrative-driven items and offer them on a pre-order basis. If you’re working with a high MOQ producer, you might negotiate slightly smaller quantities at a higher price or bundle your order with other small orders, although this often involves lengthy waiting periods. I once waited 1.5 years for a supplier to fulfill an order.
3. Production Timeframes
The production of next-generation materials often involves innovative methods, specialized facilities, or rare raw materials. Many manufacturers are still in the process of commercializing their products or relying on outsourced production.
As a result, significant delays in material supply are common. While conventional textiles might take about three months from order placement to delivery (assuming stock is available), new-generation materials can take up to six months or more. I’ve had experiences where a promised three-week lead time turned into a three-month wait. When working with these materials, you must be prepared to embrace the experimental nature of the process. Stock replenishment can be particularly challenging, so consider building flexibility into your business model or leveraging the scarcity of the materials as part of your brand narrative.
4. Quality Consistency
Achieving consistent quality is a notable challenge with new-generation materials, as many are derived from biological sources and lack standardization. For example, materials created from mushrooms or bacteria often exhibit variability, and even bio-plastics can show uneven qualities due to their non-synthetic nature.
Standardization is generally only achievable with woven textiles made from innovative filaments. The best approach is to educate your customers about the uniqueness of these materials. Just as people appreciate the natural variations in wood, they may come to value the distinct characteristics and stories behind bio-materials.
5. Rapid Evolution of Material Stock
Next-generation materials are still in a phase of rapid innovation. Unlike conventional materials, where advancements typically revolve around color, texture, or design, these innovations often involve fundamental changes in the material’s structure and properties.
This constant evolution can be challenging to keep up with. More than once, I’ve encountered situations where I finally mastered working with a material, only to find that the manufacturer had already developed a more advanced version. While this progress is exciting, it can be frustrating to have to continuously adjust your products and manufacturing processes to incorporate these improvements. I’ve faced this with fabrics for scarves, starting with an older version while testing a newer, better one, as well as with polymers.
In this ever-evolving field, adaptability is key. Being prepared for these challenges will help you navigate the complexities of working with next-generation materials and leverage their potential to create truly innovative products.